Today was a bit longer, 21 km. We are now in El Cubo de Fierra del Vino. We have been assured /advised that the name has nothing to do with wine. Today was long, and though I thought that 21 km would not be a big deal, I was wrong. We had rain for the first 2 hours, and then a road that over every rise, we were all convinced we would see El Cubo, but not. We did finally get here though. Our big issue was really one of food. We did not stock up in Salamanca,first mistake. Then we got to Calzada de Caldunciel yesterday, and then we’re just getting comfortable, sorting out clothes, and showers etc, and by the time we looked up where we could get groceries, the 2 stores were just closing. So then we head into Sunday, and things did not look good. We did get lucky at least finding a restaurant, and at least got breakfast, we then ate all the remaining food that any of us had in our packs, on the route today. Not nearly enough. So…… We have been eating (and drinking) ever since we got here.

We are currently sitting in a bar in Spain waiting for the stores to open watching the fire in fort  McMurrey   This picture is the first official “sign” of our journey.  A yellow arrow, I will try to show examples of some of the fancier arrows

First night in refugio/hostel. 8 people to a room…….4 bunk beds. 2 rooms. In many ways, my main purpose for this trip was to do something that was out of my comfort zone. Although hiking 500 km with back pack is new to me, the hostel situation is MORE of a challenge. The first night we arrived late and all that was left were 2 upper bunks. Well I have to say that sleeping in room of strangers AND on a top bunk was pretty foreign for me. I have not slept on an upper bunk in over 50 years. Fortunate for me 22oo hrs is the time that the door was locked, I decided that no one else was coming so took the lower bunk. Still slept poorly.
We did 16 km, the towns are spaced such that one really needs to figure a distance for the day and stick to it, somewhat, otherwise walk another 6-10 km. The next town is 19 km away. We have opted not to put ourselves in the situation where we have to do 30+ km a day as we figure that is when injuries occur. At least not at the beginning of walk.

We made it to de valdunciel last night. The Refugio sleeps 8 and although we only knew 2 other people on arrival, last night was like sleeping in a room of relatives (like you might do at a thanksgiving reunion) Much more comfortable than sleeping with strangers. Seems like the more people you meet during the day, the less strangers you sleep with at night.

We still have not purchased any food to lunch and snack on, our bad, as there were places in Salamanca that had food but since part or our “group” was way ahead we did not stop. So groceries today, most likely bread, cheese nuts and fruit.

Peregrines is the Spanish word for pilgrim, and albergue is the term for shelter. Many municipalities along the way have municipal albergues, that are generally less than 10 euro a night, or even by donation. There are also private hostels around that seem to run for 10-15 euros. Both places thus far have been municipal albergues. In order to stay at these places you need a pilgrims passport, or “credential”. They get checked and stamped at each place.

Onwards to elcubo to

y first Refugio in Salamanca Spain sleeps 16 in 2 room

this is actually third post    I have switched blogging companies because I could not work with photos on the other site

We have obsessed over the weight of our packs for some time,and in general have brought very few clothes. I am torn between being too cold, and my pack being too heavy. We did an accurate weight before this flight and I am at about 18 lbs. I even have ultra light sleeping bag. I think this has been harder for Ken who takes great pride at always being prepared for any eventuality. He HAS had to compromise. He has also been subjected to search by security with each flight, and something shows up on X-ray each time …….. The hiking poles, the bandage scissors, Swiss Army knife/fork/spoon.
All and all it does feel freeing to carry all luggage on the back. So much easier to get around transit etc.
We had our first “totally lost ” event of the trip at Madrid train station. I did try to make sure I had everything i.e tickets, on my iPad seems nowadays you just have to show up with proof of identity, paper tickets are seemingly blasé. But not so when it comes to train tickets.
Problem with learning another language is that it only gets you as far as ordinary requests. I knew donde este, hola, and billets, but not “please print out these tickets”
The other thing about the Europe rail system, called “Renfe” is that you have your ticket, know where you are going but you have to watch the big board in the station to find out which platform you need to get to, and they do not seem to decide which one it will be until about 20 mins before departure, so VERY different from planes. Of course this would only be of interest to someone actually traveling here, but who knows perhaps I might inspire someone. It seems so useful to know the system when you do not necessarily know the language.